Resin Jewelry Making — Complete Supplies List and Where to Buy Everything

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So You Want to Make Resin Jewelry — Here's Everything You Actually Need

I started making resin jewelry two years ago, and I'll be honest — my first batch looked like frozen soap bubbles. But once I figured out which supplies mattered (and which ones were a waste of money), things clicked fast. If you're standing in the craft store aisle wondering what to grab, this list will save you from buying a bunch of stuff you'll never touch again.

The total starter budget sits somewhere around $80 to $120. That gets you all 15 essentials with a little left over for experimenting. You don't need to drop $200+ on fancy kits. Most of what works best is surprisingly cheap.

The 15 Things You Actually Need

I'm grouping these into materials (the stuff that ends up in your jewelry) and tools (the stuff that helps you work with those materials). Both matter equally — bad tools will ruin good resin faster than you'd believe.

Materials

1. Epoxy Resin — $15 to $25 per 500ml

This is the big one. Everything else is secondary if your resin is junk. ArtResin and EasyCast are the two names that come up constantly in resin communities, and for good reason — they're self-leveling, low-odor, and bubble-free when mixed correctly. ArtResin costs a bit more but gives a crystal-clear finish that makes your pieces look professional right away. EasyCast is the budget pick and works fine for practice pieces. Avoid the super cheap stuff on Amazon with no brand name. I tried one of those once and it turned yellow within a week. Most epoxy resins use a 1:1 mixing ratio, but always check the label — some brands are 2:1 or even 3:1, and getting that wrong means your piece won't cure at all.

2. Silicone Molds — $5 to $15

Get a few shapes to start: round discs, small squares, and maybe a geometric hexagon or two. Silicone molds release resin cleanly without sticking, and they last forever if you don't poke them with sharp objects. The flexible ones are better than rigid plastic because you can pop pieces out without cracking them. I'd skip the intricate designs at first — simple shapes are way more forgiving when you're learning to pour and mix.

3. Pigment Paste — $8 to $12

Forget liquid dye drops. Pigment paste gives you solid, opaque color without thinning out your resin. A tiny dab goes a long way, so one set of basic colors (red, blue, yellow, black, white) will last months. Liquid pigments tend to make resin more runny, which messes with your layers and can cause bleeding between colors. Paste stays put where you put it.

4. Mica Powder — $6 to $10

Want that shimmery, metallic look? Mica powder is how you get it. Gold and silver are the most popular, but don't sleep on rose gold, copper, and holographic shades. A tiny pinch mixed into clear resin creates a gorgeous pearlescent effect that catches light beautifully. Unlike glitter, mica powder dissolves into the resin so you get a smooth surface instead of a bumpy one.

5. Dried Flowers — $5 to $10

Flower resin jewelry is having a huge moment right now. You can buy pre-dried flower packs or dry your own (press them between heavy books for about a week). Position them in the mold, pour a thin layer of UV resin over them to hold them in place, then fill the rest with your epoxy. Baby's breath, forget-me-nots, and tiny daisies work best because they're flat and delicate. Thicker flowers like roses need to be sliced thin or they'll stick up awkwardly.

6. Glitter — $3 to $5

Cheap, fun, and impossible to mess up. Get a multi-pack with different sizes — fine glitter creates a subtle sparkle while chunky pieces add real texture. A common trick is to dust the bottom of your mold with glitter before pouring resin, so it all ends up on the front face of your piece where it shows most.

7. Cabochons — $5 to $15

These are flat-backed gem pieces that you embed into resin. They add a nice focal point to pendants and rings. Glass cabochons give a clean, classic look, while acrylic ones are lighter and cheaper. You can also use small sea glass pieces, polished stones, or even tiny seashells for a similar effect. The flat back is key — it sits flush against the mold surface so resin flows around it evenly.

8. UV Resin — $10 to $15

UV resin is different from epoxy. It cures under a UV lamp in about 60 seconds instead of sitting around for 24 hours. I use it for tiny details — sealing dried flowers, adding a glossy top coat, or making quick repairs on small pieces. It's not great for large projects (it can get brittle and yellow over time), but for small accents, it's a lifesaver. You'll need a small UV nail lamp to go with it, which usually costs another $10 to $15.

Tools

9. Mixing Cups — $5

Clear plastic graduated cups. You need to see exactly how much resin and hardener you're pouring, so clear is non-negotiable. Buy a pack of 20 or 30 because you'll go through them fast — resin ruins them after one use. The ones with measurement lines printed on the side are worth the extra dollar or two.

10. Stir Sticks — $3

Wooden craft sticks or flat plastic paddles. Either works fine. You'll want extras because stirring resin tends to leave residue on the stick, and scraping that back into your cup can introduce contaminants. Slow, deliberate stirring is the way to go. More on that in the mistakes section below.

11. Heat Gun — $15 to $25

This is my favorite tool on the entire list. Bubbles in resin are the enemy, and a heat gun on low setting zaps them instantly. Hold it a few inches above your poured resin, sweep it across the surface, and watch the bubbles rise and pop. No heat gun? Some people use a kitchen torch, but that's overkill and can scorch the resin. A hair dryer on warm works in a pinch, though it's not as precise.

12. Sandpaper — $5

Get a pack that covers 400 grit through 2000 grit. You'll start coarse to shape edges and smooth out rough spots, then work your way up to fine grits for a smooth finish before polishing. Wet sanding works best — dip the paper in water so it doesn't clog and the surface stays cool. This step turns a "homemade looking" piece into something that feels store-bought.

13. Polishing Compound — $5

After sanding, a good polishing compound brings back that glass-like shine. Rub it on with a soft cloth in circular motions. The difference between sanded resin and polished resin is dramatic — one looks matte and chalky, the other looks like actual glass. This is a small step that makes a huge visual impact on your finished piece.

14. Jump Rings and Findings — $5 to $10

Findings are the hardware that turns a resin shape into actual jewelry. Jump rings connect pendants to chains. Ear wire hooks turn disc shapes into earrings. Lobster clasps finish necklaces and bracelets. Buy a mixed findings kit — they're cheap and give you options. Just make sure you're getting nickel-free or hypoallergenic hardware if you're selling or gifting to people with sensitive skin.

15. Gloves and Mask — $5

Last but absolutely not least. Epoxy resin is a skin irritant, and breathing the fumes for extended periods isn't great for you either. Nitrile gloves (latex allergies are a real thing) and a basic dust mask or respirator will keep you safe. Work in a well-ventilated area too — open a window or work near an exhaust fan. Some people skip this step because it feels unnecessary for a "craft," but contact dermatitis from uncured resin is miserable and can take weeks to clear up.

Common Beginner Mistakes That Ruin Pieces

I've made all of these. Learn from my failures.

Getting the Mix Ratio Wrong

Most resins are 1:1, meaning equal parts resin and hardener by volume. Eyeballing it doesn't work. Use your graduated cups and measure precisely. Even a small imbalance — say, 55% resin to 45% hardener — can leave your piece sticky for days. If you measure by weight instead of volume, double-check the conversion because they're not always the same.

Stirring Too Fast

Whipping your resin like cake batter introduces hundreds of tiny air bubbles. Stir slowly and methodically for at least two to three minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of your cup. You want the mixture to look completely uniform — no streaks, no swirls. If you see streaks after 30 seconds, keep going.

Working in High Humidity

This one surprised me. If the room humidity is above 60%, the surface of your cured resin can turn out sticky or tacky, even if you mixed everything correctly. The moisture in the air interferes with the chemical reaction. Run a dehumidifier or wait for a drier day. Summer in a non-air-conditioned room is basically the worst time to pour resin.

Three Easy Starter Projects

Don't jump into complex layered pieces right away. Start with these and build confidence.

Dried Flower Earrings (30 Minutes)

Press a small dried flower into each cavity of a round mold. Mix a small batch of clear epoxy, pour it to fill each cavity about halfway, then add your flower with tweezers. Pour a little UV resin over the flower to pin it down, wait 60 seconds under the lamp, then top off with more epoxy. After 24 hours of curing, sand the edges, attach ear hooks with jump rings, and you're done. The whole active working time is maybe 20 minutes. The rest is waiting.

Gradient Pendant (45 Minutes)

Mix three small batches of resin in different shades of the same color — light, medium, and dark. Pour the lightest shade into the bottom of your mold first. Wait 10 to 15 minutes for it to thicken slightly (called the "gel stage"), then pour the medium shade on top. Wait another 10 minutes, then add the dark shade. Because each layer is slightly gelled, they won't blend together completely — you'll get clean-ish bands of color. Cure for 24 hours, drill a hole at the top, and thread it onto a chain.

Ocean Wave Bracelet (1 Hour)

This one's popular for a reason — it looks impressive but it's mostly just layering. Pour a base layer of white resin into a rectangular mold. Let it partially set. Mix blue pigment paste with resin and pour it on, tilting the mold slightly to create a wave-like pour line. Add a pinch of fine white glitter to simulate sea foam. Let it set again, then add a thin clear top coat. Once cured, sand smooth, polish, drill two holes on the short ends, and connect with a bracelet bar and jump rings.

Where to Buy This Stuff

Most of these items are available on Amazon, Michaels, and Blick Art Materials. For resin specifically, buying directly from ArtResin or EasyCast's websites usually gets you better freshness (old resin can yellow in the bottle). Mica powder and dried flowers are cheapest on Etsy in bulk packs. Pigment paste shows up in both art supply stores and specialty resin shops online. Don't overthink it — start with whatever ships fastest and upgrade specific brands once you know what you like.

Wrapping Up

Resin jewelry is one of those crafts where the barrier to entry is low but the ceiling for creativity is high. You can make genuinely beautiful pieces after just a few weekends of practice. The key is getting the basics right — measure your resin accurately, stir slowly, work in dry conditions, and always wear gloves. Everything else is just experimentation and having fun with colors, shapes, and inclusions. Start with the three projects above, then let your curiosity take over from there.